The Counter Reformation of Palm Springs Dining
There’s something mysterious and mischievous about Counter Reformation that makes the whole experience so much fun. Their tapas‑style menu is elevated to what should be Michelin‑noted, and the food is a fantastic experience in its own right. But the vibe, décor, ethos, and statement make it a surreal escape that pulls you out of everyday life.
Where is it at?
That’s a great question, because unless you know, you won’t know. It’s hidden in the back gardens of The Parker Palm Springs at the south end of Palm Canyon. The Parker is one of the Coachella Valley’s more prestigious resorts, and the minute you step on the property you get the feeling you’re somewhere you’re not supposed to be. The hotel is tucked behind giant trees, and upon parking on the street you’ll traverse a quiet, secluded driveway before arriving at the hotel’s giant doors.
You enter through the lobby, past the Parker’s more visible restaurants — Norma’s and Mr. Parker — and head outside into the gardens. The gardens offer several secluded and intimate nooks, and it’s a secret pathway behind hedges that leads to Counter Reformation.
Reformation as a statement of cuisine and concept
As a brief background, the Counter‑Reformation was a 16th‑century movement by the Catholic Church in response to the rise of Protestantism. The restaurant plays on that theme with its gothic design, chapel‑like aesthetic, dim candlelit room, echoing mirrors, and an authentic imported confessional booth at the end of the room. The confessional booth is playful and irreverent, adding to the room’s atmosphere, and it also makes for a great photo op — all intertwined with an element of modern Palm Springs chic – or Palm Springs cheek. It’s a clever novelty that should put it on everyone’s Palm Springs bucket list.
Counter Reformation opened in 2017 at a time when Palm Springs was just starting to catch on to the modernized food movement — the idea that food could transcend concept and style definitions and create its own rules. In essence, they were declaring their own counter‑reformation of food and the way it was being presented.
A chef’s influence and a menu that endures
I was first introduced to Counter Reformation when an editor sent me for an assignment. I met executive chef Hervé Glin, who generously walked me through the menu beyond the focus of my assignment, and it was an experience that lingered — the food discovery and the level of engagement. Although Glin left a couple of years ago, I was thrilled to hear that he had been back recently to consult on a menu revamp. It was every bit as familiar as the one that had left that lasting first impression.
Service that matches the setting
We arrived upon opening on a quiet Sunday evening and as we sat, a few other couples drifted in. We were warmly and enthusiastically greeted by Yocelyn, who gave us background on the hotel and the food and beverage program before running through the menu. She raved about the dishes we asked about (you can tell when a server genuinely loves the food they’re serving) and described each as they were delivered. As more patrons arrived, the level of service and attentiveness never waned — a touch that deserves special note. It hadn’t just been the executive chef who had shown such great hospitality seven years ago; that ethos was still alive today.
A menu built on indulgence and play
There’s a distinctive novelty and slyness to the menu that almost feels sinful (the confessional booth looms in the background of every bite). Even more so when you see an illustration of Adam & Eve, the original sin, at the top of the menu. The menu continues that note with dishes like “Faux” Foie Gras, and ingredients from caviar (several variations), quail eggs, raw beef carpaccio, oysters, and combinations your mother would never have allowed — like Caviar and Donuts. For added touch, they slice the Jamón ibérico at the bar in front of you — a mark of the commitment to quality. And if that all seems a little too much, they’ve got more ethical options like the Hearts of Palm “Calamari” and Roasted Shallot Tarte Tatin.
The menu is designed for fun, amusement, and small‑portion indulgence. Thankfully, my buddy and I both have larger appetites, so we worked through several quite comfortably. It might make the perfect spot for a glass of wine and a small bite before dinner elsewhere, but I truly encourage anyone to do as we did — dive into the menu and order incrementally as your appetite allows.
Yocelyn was a tremendous help, and I have to give her extra points for meeting all of my industry buddy’s barrage of questions and details. It’s priced reasonably, with dishes running between $11 and $28 (most in the $teens). We got through six dishes for a much lower price than we would have paid for dinner elsewhere.
Confessing Our Own Sins
The Chicharrón & Dips made for an easy opener — a loud, crackling pile of chicharrones with three dips that covered the spectrum from smoky to creamy to fresh. From there, curiosity took over. The Lobster Noodles on Chopsticks were exactly the kind of playful dish Counter Reformation is known for: spaghetti wrapped around chopsticks holding a surprisingly deep lobster‑tomato ragu with Calabrian chili and bottarga. And of course, I had to revisit the Caviar, Crème Fraîche & Quail Egg, the tiny, silky bite I first covered years ago. It’s still one of the most mischievous, memorable items on the menu.
The theme continued with the Jamón Mousse, a light, airy, savory creation born from experimentation, balanced with pear and mustard. The Roasted Shallot Tarte Tatin leaned richer, pairing caramelized shallots with puff pastry and a necessary oxtail ragout that tied the whole dish together. And because Counter Reformation doesn’t offer a traditional dessert, the Caviar & Donuts filled that role — citrus‑infused donut holes topped with crème fraîche and Osetra caviar. The presentation on this last one was especially amusing, the two donuts cheekily perched atop ceranic hands – insert whatever joke you like.
There were several dishes I didn’t get to this time — Jamón Ibérico, Beef Carpaccio, Asian‑Style Beef Tartare, Cheesemonger Plate — all of which would easily make my list on a return visit. The menu is full of hits, and compromises were inevitable. But that’s part of the fun here: you can’t try everything in one sitting, and Counter Reformation is exactly the kind of place that makes you want to come back with more friends and keep exploring.
Wine as part of the experience
Counter Reformation is considered a “wine” and tapas bar. They have an original wine menu offering smaller pours for those wanting to mix and match along with the food. It’s a sharply curated list leaning into offbeat regions and varietals, and just like the food, adding an element of discovery to the adventure. In addition to glass and bottle selections, they offer 3‑oz pours.
A Reformation in Palm Springs Dining
Counter Reformation exists as one of the truly unique experiences on the Palm Springs culinary landscape — even worthy of discussion on the greater California stage. The dishes are fascinating and exquisitely executed, and it’s absolutely a place that deserves Michelin‑level conversation. The Parker is a prestigious destination that has housed presidents and foreign dignitaries, and while Norma’s and Mr. Parker offer elevated dining, Counter Reformation is the hotel’s true gem — the bratty child prodigy of its more formal concepts, and the first reason you need to visit.
I did rave about Del Rey at Villa Royale recently, and there are similarities: hidden, speakeasy‑style venues inside resorts, both serving tapas in intimate, dim‑lit settings. The Del Rey as the Villa Royale’s only restaurant is a broader experience. Both are excellent, but for uniqueness and originality, Counter Reformation is the one you’ll want.
Counter Reformation isn’t just another resort restaurant; it’s one of the defining experiences in Palm Springs dining. Few places capture the city’s blend of secrecy, design, indulgence, and personality as completely as this candlelit hideaway in the Parker’s gardens. If you’re building a list of Palm Springs essentials, it belongs near the top — a secret worth sharing and one of the city’s most atmospheric and indulgent dining experiences.
What You Need to Know
Where is Counter Reformation?
It’s inside The Parker Palm Springs, on the east end of Palm Canyon near Cathedral City. The property feels exclusive, but don’t let that intimidate you — the restaurant itself is completely down‑to‑earth. If you’re unsure where to go, ask any service or valet staff; they’ll point you toward the garden pathway that leads to the bar.
How is the parking?
The hotel offers valet parking, but there’s also street parking right outside the driveway. If you park on the street, expect about a two‑minute walk up the quiet, tree‑lined drive.
Do you need a reservation?
It might sound funny for a bar‑only space, but yes — a reservation is smart. Seating is limited and the room fills quickly. That said, you can walk in, and solo diners have an especially good chance of snagging a seat at the bar.
Who should I go with?
It’s a 21‑plus bar, so no kids. The space is perfect for two‑person conversation, fun, and intimacy. It’s also great for solo diners — portions are small, the bar is social, and you can comfortably order two or three dishes on your own. Larger groups should definitely book ahead, but the vibe works for any party size.
What should I order?
Honestly? Anything. The menu is built for experimentation and adventure. If you want something steady, the Jamón Ibérico or Cheesemonger Plate are reliable anchors. But the real joy is in the surprises — order several dishes, but do it incrementally as your appetite allows.
